Lenau, intum… ever heard or tasted these delicacies? Kimchi, sushi, lumpiang shanghai? Of course, you tasted them all!

Dishes emanating from foreign cuisines are conquering every street corner, every dining escape, and every famous getaway. Like proliferating mushrooms, they are gaining the taste buds of many Cordillerans along with the pressures of modernization. Yet, while foreign gastronomical delights and products continue to dominate every Cordilleran dining table, it is heartening that many tribes, especially those in remote vicinities, still practice and serve many of their traditional delicacies which are going beyond the contemporary styles of cooking. Leased with uniqueness coupled with stories reflecting their aged culture, they are more than just treats to an ailing stomach. 

The i-Lias, for instance, managed to retain some of their authentic dishes which are commonly cooked during festivities and reunions, as well as during ceremonial rites and rituals. Among these are the lenau and intum. 

Lias is one of the barangays of Barlig, Mountain Province. People from the place are called i-Lias. 

The i-Lias, according to an article titled, “Profile History of Lias,” by Luis Talastas, local historian of Lias and a former barangay chairman, is a tribe occupying the northern portion of Barlig, Mountain Province originating from Tocucan, Bontoc. With at least two thousand population at present, Lias possesses a set of owned customary beliefs and practices.

Kachews, Fayyak, and Pak-paku

A more popular dish among the i-Lias is the lenau which consists of kachews stuffing. Kachews are fingerfishes thriving in the rivers and brooks of Lias and in other parts of the Cordillera. 

In an article titled Lenau, published in the Mountain Province Exponent, a community newspaper circulated in Mountain Province, authored by Sixto Talastas, a local culture advocate and a brother of Luis Talastas, the cooking and preparation of lenau is simple. The kachews are wrapped using nunu (reed) leaves in convenient sizes. Then, they are placed inside a pile of nunu and khumi (left over rice twig) before cooking. Accordingly, the fire and ember must be controlled and the lenau must be constantly checked to prevent the kachew from being burned or undercooked. Commonly, the cooking takes about ten minutes. In some occasions, river species such as fayyak (tadpole) and al-al–lonet (larvae of dragonflies) are mixed with the kachews. 

Though no condiments are added when eaten, the lenau is said to be delicious and aromatic because of the leaves used. Locals claim that it is only in Lias where this type of cooking is being practiced. 

“I really love this dish because it is all natural but then you could really feel a deliciously distinctive taste,” exclaimed Sonny Marlon, a visiting American tourist.

Another i-Lias delicacy is the intum, which is similar to the lenau in terms of the manner of cooking. But instead of kachews, vegetables are stuffed and wrapped using banana leaves, usually molded in round shape. Most commonly used as filling of the intum are pakpaku (edible ferns found along river banks), camote tops, spring onions, and gabi. These are often supplemented with canned food, fishes or chopped meat. 

Lias Fermented Delicacies

Just like the rest of the Cordilleras, the i-Lias have also their own version of the famous tapey (rice wine) which is called as limpus. 

In making the limpus, the glutinous or colored heirloom varieties of rice such as chichat and toleng are commonly used. These are then placed on a kusin (native jar), mixed with bubud (a traditional fermenting agent made of rice), and stored for a certain period of time. According to the locals, it would take at least a week before the fermentation is complete. The longer it is stored, the more bitter and pungent the taste becomes. 

Efong, on the other hand, consists of corn kernels or cassava fermented using the extract of camote peelings. Sour with a distinct odor, it is generally used to flavor fishes a la sinigang but it can also be eaten as viand which is commonly served after the wake of the dead. 

The abundance of water resources such as brooks that serve as tributaries of the Tanudan River has also made aquatic species part of the i-Lias daily sustenance. Among these is the chalet (eel) which continues to draw attention within the local markets. Chalet is commonly cooked by boiling in water supplemented with native souring agents such as farangfang leaves. In some instances, chalet is smoked to be preserved for future use.

More Than Just Culinary Specialties

Signifying complex knowledge and systems, native delights are tangible manifestations of the rich and diverse culture and tradition of the people. More importantly, it portrays different community values that have been integral in the lives not only to the i-Lias but also to other Indigenous Peoples (IPs). 

The involvement of community members alone in the preparation of local dishes such as lenau depicts unity. Every member of the tribe is assigned with different tasks and responsibilities with respect to their capabilities, thus, fostering gender equity and respect to individuals. 

Respect to elders is also manifested especially in the conduct of prayers and rituals throughout the preparation of cuisines. Because of their wisdom, through the long and various experiences and immersions, they are being looked upon as leaders of the tribe especially in community decision making processes and in presiding feasts and other similar occasions. 

Furthermore, the i-Lias have that strong perception that the ingredients they use in preparing their cuisines such as fishes and wild vegetables have been made abundant because of their fervent hope and prayers being offered to the spirits and Kabunian (God). Such spirituality prompts them to nurture a sense of responsibility as stewards and guardians of nature coupled with the purpose of sustaining them for the future generations. 

Indeed, more than just delights and styles of the cuisines, the i-Lias’ indigenous food is a testimony of their inherited practices which stood the test of time. This is one of the are tangible unifying factors embedded in i-Lias’ connection with their environment, portrayed in their community values, and integrated in their co-existence with each other.